Bellini Brunch

Have you ever thought about the word ‘brunch?’ I realize that it is a combination of ‘breakfast and lunch,’ but on its own, without context or association, it sounds more like some kind of ancient forest ritual, or better yet, an obsolete part of factory machinery- the brunch-cross, the brunching, the brunch-mat, and so on.


For all intent purposes, everyone knows that brunch comes somewhere between breakfast and lunch, usually anywhere between 11-1pm. In the States, brunch, whether celebratory or not, often involves some kind of white fizz. Champagne, prosecco, cava, vinho verde, you name it. In Colombia, it is the hour of onces, or elevenses, the name and tradition probably inherited from the English. Today in Colombia, the time has shifted to late afternoon, and for people like my great, Tia Isabelita, the very traditional, dama grande de mi familia, it involves hot chocolate and some kind of savory bread, like arepas. In less traditional places though, elevenses means a shot of aguardiente, the Colombian, anis-flavored liquor, which also happens to be made up of eleven letters.

In any event, I digress. I went to the bar at Fino for the first time the other night with Stella, on a last minute, quick, Bellini-tester evening. Fino, as many of you already know, is off of Charlotte St., does a Spanish Tapas menu, and is the brainchild of Sam and Eddie Hart who also run Barrafina and Quo Vadis, which I have yet to visit.

The bar area was comfortable, a little austere perhaps, and without much of a view. Fortunately, I was with handsome Stella, who is a pleasure to see, and always makes great company. We ordered our Bellinis, which were mixed with cava and some kind of boutique fruit puree, and served in a champagne flute by the very professional bar man in front of us. They were thick and hearty, and might have faired well with the chorizo tortilla, or the bunuelos de bacalao, had we ordered any food. As it was, they were a bit heavy and fruity, with only hints of the cava, and perhaps might have been better suited to a breakfast brunch, or even mid-morning onces.

Bellini made with white peach puree, and NV Torre del Gall, Brut Reserva           £8.50

Fino Restaurant

33 Charlotte St., (enter on Rathbone)

London W1T 1RR

Tel 020 7813 8010